Friday, September 23, 2016

National Museum Redux

You'll see this flower later.  Remember it.
 

Very excited to return and see the rest of the museum.
 
However . . . the main museum is closed on Monday!!
 
There was a special exhibit open, so we viewed it.  Discoveries from the Sinan Shipwreck, commemorating the 40th anniversary of the excavation, divided into three sections:  "Cultural signs and Symbols of the Sinan Shipwreck," "Magnificent Merchant Vessel of the Fourteenth Century," and "The Treasure House Is Now Open."
 
 
The Sinan ship was a merchant vessel loaded with a large cargo of trade goods, which departed from Qingyuan, China in 1323, bound for the port of Hakata, Japan.  En route, however, the ship sank near the Sinan coast, where it lay on the seabed for 652 years before being discovered and reintroduced to the world.
 
"Cultural signs and Symbols of the Sinan Shipwreck" attempted to introduce some history regarding commerce and exchange between cultures in the Far East during the period of the shipwreck.  Many items were on display that showed how the cultures were similar, as well as how they were different . . . and how some products and customs became an amalgam of several cultures.
 
Japanese Taste for Chinese Things.
 
Bokiekotoba, Scroll Two:  The Kitchen of Nanryuin.  Meiji, 19th century.  Tokyo National Museum.
 
 
Bokiekotoba, Scroll Six:  The Banquet in the Kitanoji.  Meiji, 19th century.  Tokyo National Museum.
 
The Sinan finds included a large number of containers related to the customs of drinking tea, burning incense and arranging flowers.  During the Kamakura period (1192-1333), Japan had not yet established official ties with China, but, through active exchange, the Japanese people adopted several of the Chinese cultural practices.  Tea drinking, incense burning and flower arranging were prevalent among the upper class of the Kamakura shogunate and huge quantities of Chinese vessels (dishes, not ships) were imported into Japan.  This is likely the main reason that the Sinan ship was so full of Chinese wares.

Qingbai porcelain cup and stand and Qingbai porcelain peach-shaped cup.  Jingdezhen kilns.  Late 13th century-Early 14th century.
 
Large Celadon dish with applied twin fish design.  Longquan kilns.  Late 13th century-Early 14th century.  Twin fish appear often in Chinese, Japanese and Korean art.  Fish often swim in pairs, and in China, a pair of fish signifies conjugal fidelity and unity.
 
I do have a strange fascination with Celadon ceramics.  The term denotes both wares glazed in the jade green celadon color, also known as greenware (the term specialists tend to use) and a type of transparent glaze, often with small cracks.  I now have a vase, a few incense burners and a beautiful lamp.
 
For many centuries, celadon wares were the most highly regarded by the Chinese Imperial court, before being replaced in fashion by painted wares, especially the new blue and white porcelain, under the Yuan dynasty. The similarity of the color to jade, traditionally the most highly valued material in China, was a large part of its attraction. Celadon continued to be produced in China at a lower level, often with a conscious sense of reviving older styles. In Korea the celadons produced under the Goryeo Dynasty (918–1392) are regarded as the classic wares of Korean porcelain.
 
Celadon bottles with lotus and floral design.  Longquan kilns.  Late 13th century-Early 14th century.
 
Celadon ewer with lotus scroll design.
 
Assorted Celadon and Qingbai porcelain.
 
"Magnificent Merchant Vessel of the Fourteenth Century"
 
Weighing more than 200 tons, and measuring 112 feet long, 36 feet wide and 12 feet deep, the Sinan ship was one of the largest merchant vessels of the fourteenth century.  It is estimated that there were probably around 60 passengers on board at the time the ship sank.
 
 
Certain details of the ship indicate that it was likely constructed in Quanzhou, Fujian.  For example, the overall size is similar to other ships from Fujian Provice, as is the exterior covering of connected plates, reminiscent of fish scales.  Additionally, holes were drilled in the keel of the bilge at points where it connected to the bow and stern.  These holes likely once held bronze mirrors, which ships from Quanzhou traditionally attached as talismans for a safe journey.
 
The Sinan ship took on multiple loads of commercial goods; the first cargo was loaded on April 22, 1323, while the final loading took place on June 3, 1323.  After departing from Qingyuan, the Sinan ship may have encountered a storm near Jeju-do Island, causing it to drift to the Sinan coast, where it ultimately sank.
 
The Sinan Shipwreck excavation started in August 1975 with a fisherman catching a Celadon vase in a net off the coast of Jeungdo – one of the islands of Sinan County in South Jeolla Province.  The fisherman showed the vase to his younger brother, a primary school teacher, and the bother reported the incident to the Sinan County Office.  The following year, the Cultural Properties management Bureau (now the Cultural Heritage Administration) set up a full-scale exhibition and salvage.  A series of excavations were conducted from 1976 to 1984, salvaging more than 24,000 artifacts.  These “discoveries from the Sinan Shipwreck” are featured in the exhibition.
 
The Sinan ship appears to have sunk within a month or two after its departure in Early June by the lunar calendar and was buried underwater for over 650 years.   
 
"The Treasure House Is Now Open"
 
 I swear we were not at Crate and Barrel.
 
Ceramics are the most significant items found on the Sinan shipwreck.  During the period of the wreck, Chinese ceramics were shipped abroad from East and Southeast Asia to the Middle East and Africa in massive quantities.  Ceramic wares salvaged from the shipwreck include major types of high-quality Chinese ceramics.  In addition, seven pieces of Goryeo celadon were found, providing valuable information regarding ceramics exchange in Eastern Asia.
 
Sinan ceramics can be classified into several types:  Celadon, Qingbai, white porcelain, black-glazed, brown-glazed, black-and-white sgraffito and earthenware.  Each of these was made from kilns throughout China.

 
Celadon dishes with dragon designs.  Longquan kilns.  Late 13th century-Early 14th century.
 
Celadon jar with dragon design and Celadon bodhisattva.  Longquan kilns.  Late 13th century-Early 14th century.
 
Celadon ribbed jar.  Longquan kilns.  Late 13th century-Early 14th century.
 
Celadon figure of woman, x2, Celadon Taoist figurine.  Longquan kilns.  Late 13th century-Early 14th century.
 
 
Bronze water dropper, Celadon water dropper, Celadon brush holder.  Late 13th century-Early 14th century.
 
Qinbai porcelain dishes with lotus, plum blossom, peony and deer designs.  Jingdezhen kilns.  Late 13th century-Early 14th century.

Jars with floral and dragon designs.  Cishou kilns.  Late 13th century-Early 14th century.

Clay figurines.  Late 13th century-Early 14th century.

Qingbai Bodhisdharma, Bodhisattva and water droppers.  Late 13th century-Early 14th century.

 
Celadon water droppers.  Longquan kilns.  Late 13th century-Early 14th century.
 
The Sinan ship was preserved in a good condition for a long period of time because it was buried in a muddy seabed.  Around 1,000 beams of red sandalwood and 28 tons of coins lined the base of the ship.  These heavy items maintained the ship's balance.
 
Characters, numbers and symbols were inscribed on more than 350 of the beams.  These are thought to indicate owners or inventory.  Among these, "'daji' is seen on wooden boxes containing ceramics, possible indicating the same shipper.
 
Additionally, Roman and Arabic numerals and Roman alphabets are found, presumably traces of traders from the Mediterranean region and Southwest Asia.
 
Coins were the heaviest item on the Sinan ship.  The total weight exceeded 28 tons and over 8 million pieces were excavated.  Chinese coins are dominant, but there are also a small number of Vietnamese coins.  The earliest coin is the Huaquan, dating to 14 CE.  The latest are the Zhida tongbao and Dayuan tongbao, produced in 1310 during the Yuam period (1271-1368.)  These Chinese coins were likely used as currency in Japan.
 
Metal wares recovered from the Sinan shipwreck amount to more than 1,000 pieces.  They represent various materials, including brass, tin, bronze and copper and range from cooking utensils like pots, pans, ladles and measuring devices to incense burning tools and Buddhist ritual items.
 
Also included are a large number of containers imitating ancient bronze forms which follow the Song (960-1279) tradition of making vessels in antique styles.  Additionally, around 340 ingots were excavated.
 
Black glazed bottle.

Bronze mirrors.  Late 13th century-Early 14th century.

Bronze lion-shaped incense burner.  Late 13th century-Early 14th century.

Bottle with scroll design.  Jizhou kilns.  Late 13th century-Early 14th century.

Reverse.
 
CPT Yu, MAJ Rivera and MAJ Brooks.
 
Qingbai porcelain dish with couplet poem.  Jingdezhen kilns.  Late 13th century-Early 14th century.
 
There is a legend that goes with this dish, embellished with two pink leaves and inscribed with the following verse:
 
"Why is the stream running so hastily
whilst in the deep palace I'm passing my idle days?"
 
This verse is the first half of a poem composed by a court lady during the Tang Dynasty.  The second half of the poem is:
 
"I thank the red leaf solicitously,
Wishing it would reach the outside world sound and safe."
 
The dish that should contain the latter part of the poem has not been found.

Thursday, September 15, 2016

National Museum of Korea

On the way to the museum.  You can only appreciate my concern with this means of baby transport if you can feel the 95 degree heat AND the 95 percent humidity.

In all of my trips, I actually thought this was an opera house.  It's where we're headed.

Lots of steps, but not too steep.
 
Gathering space.

The architect did a fantastic job of making an impressive gathering space while still making the visitor feel welcome.

The National Museum of Korea is the flagship museum of Korean history and art in South Korea.  It was established in 1945 and is committed to various studies and research activities in archaeology, history and art.

The museum contains over 310,000 pieces in its collection with about 15,000 pieces on display at one time.  Relics and artifacts are displayed in six permanent exhibition galleries:  the Prehistory and Ancient History Gallery, the Medieval and Early Modern History Gallery, the Donation Gallery, the Calligraphy and Painting Gallery, the Asian Art Gallery, and the Sculpture and Crafts Gallery.
 
 
 It is the sixth largest museum in the world (floor space), now covering a total of 3,180,000 square feet (yes, MILLION).  To protect the artifacts, the main building can withstand a magnitude 6.0 earthquake. The display cases are equipped with shock-absorbent platforms. There is also an imported natural lighting system which utilizes sunlight instead of artificial lights and a specially designed air-conditioning system. The museum also has special exhibition halls, education facilities, a children's museum, huge outdoor exhibition areas, restaurants, cafes, and shops.
 
Photo of refugees taken through a view screen.  I just like the context of the photo.

The symbol of the turtle is important in Korean culture.  While the dragon was considered the ruler of all animals, the turtle ruled over the insects.  Because turtles live longer than other animals, they symbolize longevity.  People believed that turtles had the power to predict the future.  Fortune tellers used the shape of a turtle's shell to forecast the future.  Turtle images often form the base of steles or monuments to famous people, especially Buddhism monks.

Royal Seal of Empress Myeongseong.  ca. 1921.
 
Seals and seal album.  Joseon Dynasty. ca.  1392–1897.
Yep, REALLY OLD stamping!
 
A Korean predecessor to Vitruvian Man?
 
Parade of Joseon Envoys to Japan, early 20th Century.  They failed to mentioned that at the time Korea was under Japanese rule . . . so "envoys" may be stretching it a bit.


 
Bamboo sticks bearing phrases from Confucianism classics, Joseon Dynasty 18th-19th Century.  Kind of an Industrial Age "Word a Day" calendar!
 
A rain gauge, Joseon Dynasty, 15th Century.

A miniature replica of the canopy suspended over the throne in Geunjeongjeon of Gyeongbokgung Palace.  The throne of Joseon kings was normally ornamented with such a canopy and backdrop painting of the sun, the moon and the Five Peaks that symbolize their royal authority.
 
 The carvings and line drawings on the rocky wall of Bangudae enable us to get a glimpse of the life of prehistoric people by means of vivid portrayals of their hunting, fishing and festive activities.  Among the whales, turtles, tigers, deer and other animals represented here, some appear as being captured in nets or cages.  One can also see people in boats and warriors dancing with their genitals exposed.  It is assumed that the petroglyphs functioned as a sort of prater for bounteous harvest and success in hunting and fishing.
 
Spearheads.

Bronze knife-shaped coins.  Characteristic of the Lianhuabao-Sejukri culture, marked with the Chinese symbol for "Ming."

Gilt bronze bear-shaped legs.
 
Jade, on the Border Between Life and Death.  Seems that it's not just the Egyptians . . .
 
A number of exhumed corpses demonstrated the integral role played by jade in the funerary practices of Lelang. (Incidentally, one of the Four Commanderies of Han set up by Emperor Wu of the Han dynasty in early 2nd century BC after his conquest of Wiman Joseon.  The others are Lintun, Xuantu and Zhenfan.)
 
Cicada-shaped jade objects were sometimes inserted into the mouth of a corpse to symbolize resurrection and a pig-shaped jade object was placed in the hands to symbolize food for the afterlife.  Additionally, leaf-shaped jade pieces were tied over the eyes and jade disks were laid on the chest to protect the deceased.  Jade pieces were also inserted into the deceased's ears, nose and anus, as it was believed that it would serve to prevent the deceased's life energy from leaking away.

This stele (a stone or wooden slab, generally taller than it is wide, erected as a monument, very often for funerary or commemorative purposes) records the life of the Buddhist preceptor Wollang (816-883) in the late Silla period, focusing on his ascetism.  The body of the stele stands on a pedestal in the shape of a turtle and the headstone is topped with a legendary dragon.  This kind of stele was in great vogue in the Unified Silla and Goryeo periods.
 
You can see the turtle better here.  Quite the headstone, eh?

This ten-story pagoda was original erected at the Gyeongcheonsa pagoda in the fourth year of King Chungmok (1348) of Goryeo.  On its base, carved in three tiers, are lions, arhats and scenes from the Chinese novel The Journey to the West.  In the central part of the pagoda, several groups of Buddhas and bodhisattvas are represented inside architectural settings painstakingly carved with roofs, rafters, balustrades and floral designs.
 
This pagoda was taken from its original site and smuggled to Japan in 1907 by Tanaka Mitsuaki, the Japanese Minister of Imperial Household Affairs. It was eventually recovered with the help of two Western journalists, Ernest T. Bethell from England and Homer Hulbert from America, who launched an international press campaign denouncing the theft.
 
There's way too much to see in this place in one day.
 
The public plaza and one of MANY high-rise housing areas.  It's considered a "neighborhood" and people seldom leave.  Everything they need is there, housing, schools, stores . . .

EXACTLY on the other side is the Yongsan Garrison U.S. Military base.  Some people never leave here . . .

A reflecting pool outside the museum.  I wonder if it was so named because it reflects like a mirror or if one pauses here to "reflect."
 
Regardless . . . it's time for a late lunch in Itaewon!
 
You are here . . .

. . . you're riding here . . .

. . . you're going here . . .
 
. . . you are NOT going to eat this . . .
 
. . . you ARE going to eat THIS . . .
 
. . . and cook it on this.
 
And then it's time for dessert!!
 
A quick stop for baklava.

Or Turkish ice cream.  Or for me, BOTH.
 
And finish off the night with friends and Scotch!